Metal framing installed crooked causing huge problem now.?

I have a small pantry in my MB it is 8ft tall by 18" wide opening. There is a 5" wall on left side and 6" wall on the right that returns to the back wall IOW this pantry is framed and it sits forward of the running exterior wall. . Inside the 6" wall runs my vent to the roof for the sink nearby as well as electric and medicine cabinet will hang on other side. Anyway, I really didn't have use of the top 2 plus feet of this storage area so I took the header out and opened it up to leave a 5" header at the top. All was going well and I was putting back the top plate framing and beefed it up with 2×4 so new closet door will have something to hang from and then I started getting ready to drywall and the right side framing was put in crooked during construction. So now when I go to put new drywall piece all is well till I get close to the top and this metal frame pushes out my drywall. IOW the metal frame when it was installed behind the drywall it leans towards the opening. What do I do now? Get a thinner piece of drywall for that side and shim the bottom part?Or, shave off the backside of the drywall in that top portion of the drywall so it will lay flat.

I wish I could be there to take a look at it myself to see what you are talking about! Maybe you can install drywall up to the obstruction and then spackle over the obstruction. Can the metal be removed with a pair of TIN SNIPS or a circular saw, jig saw, or reciprocating saw (SawsAll). Reciprocating saws were made to reach hard-to-reach places and can use metal or wood blades.

The idea of using thinner sheetrock with shims sounds good. Drywall comes in 3/8, 1/2, 5/8+. The 3/8 size is made for workers who lay one sheet atop the other for a more solid 3/4" thick wall. But you can buy 3/8" sheet and shim it. Sounds good.

2 Responses to “Metal framing installed crooked causing huge problem now.?”

  • sojournsoul says:

    I wish I could be there to take a look at it myself to see what you are talking about! Maybe you can install drywall up to the obstruction and then spackle over the obstruction. Can the metal be removed with a pair of TIN SNIPS or a circular saw, jig saw, or reciprocating saw (SawsAll). Reciprocating saws were made to reach hard-to-reach places and can use metal or wood blades.

    The idea of using thinner sheetrock with shims sounds good. Drywall comes in 3/8, 1/2, 5/8+. The 3/8 size is made for workers who lay one sheet atop the other for a more solid 3/4" thick wall. But you can buy 3/8" sheet and shim it. Sounds good.
    References :

  • readybill1 says:

    Just put the drywall up so it dont get pushed out and fill the rest in with spackle
    References :

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